Patola vs. Ikat: Know the Differences

Patola Saree

Patola silk sarees are one of the finest types of hand-woven silk sarees from Gujarat. Patola sarees are woven with inordinate lucidity and diligence. Before we go into the details of the Patola saree let us understand – what is patola? Patola is a double ikat woven fabric and is one of the finest and most expensive textiles.

Traditionally made by the Hindu Salvi caste and brought to Southeast Asia by the Muslim Vohra community, these costly and high-status Patola sarees were worn by the Vohras and wealthy Jains and Hindus (Brahmins and Bhatia merchants) at weddings and other ceremonial occasions. The sarees became a status symbol and part of the wedding brocade dresses and have since been considered the best pure silk wedding dresses.

These sarees are known all over the world for their very fine patterns. A special type of silk called ‘Patola Silk’ is used by the master weavers to weave these sarees. Geometric patterns with folk motifs and flaming colors are characteristic features of Patola sarees. You can see the reflection of the skill and imagination of the weaver in each Patola saree making them exclusive in nature.

Though patola is double ikat woven fabric there are several differences between ikat and patola fabrics. In the blog, you will learn the special features, key differences and weaving techniques associated with these two fabrics.

Special feature of Patola saree

Patola is a saree woven from double ikat, usually made of silk and manufactured in Patan, Gujarat, India. They are very expensive and were once worn only by members of royal and aristocratic families. These sarees are popular among those who love sophisticated patterns and can afford the high prices. The Weaving of Patola fabric is a closely secured family tradition. Three families in Patan at present are engaged in weaving these highly prized double ikat saris. It is said that no one in the family is taught this technique, but only the sons. It can take six months to a year to make a sari, as each strand must be dyed individually before it can be woven together. It is highly prized in Indonesia where it is part of the local weaving tradition.

It is a fabulous legacy of Indian textiles from North Gujarat. This double ikat silk fabric, in which the warp and weft threads are dyed into an intricate pattern, is one of the most complex textile weaving techniques in the world and a highly-priced fabric.

Ikat Saree

Ikat is a resist dyeing technique in which the yarn is “tied” and “dyed” before the fabric is dyed and woven. Ikat means “to bind” in the Indonesian language (country of origin). Since the pattern is created in the yarn itself, both sides of an ikat saree are patterned. Pochampally, Odisha, Patan Patola, and Sambalpur are some of the main ikat sarees made by Indian hand weavers.

If you go back in history, Ikat is not the indigenous textile art of India. It is also referred to as ikat or ikhat. In fact, textile historians are still trying to figure out where Ikat came from because this textile art can be seen far and wide. However, an interesting fact is that the word ikat comes from the Malay-Indonesian word Mengikat, which means “to tie a bundle of yarn or thread”.

When you think of ikat, intricate diamond-shaped patterns, curved scrolls and paisley patterns come to mind. Did you know that what looks like printed patterns on fabric is actually a complex weaving style that uses specially dyed threads to develop a pattern on the fabric as the weaver continues to weave? Even though it is a tie-dye textile art, ikat has its own flavor.

In India, this art developed into a major handloom in three major regions – Andhra Pradesh/Telangana, Gujarat and Odisha. Over the years, these three regions have developed their own style of ikat weaving, which differs in the patterns and the way the yarn is dyed and used. The fine quality of the Indian ikat even became so popular that ikat was used as currency on the famous Silk Road, which contributed to the further development of the ikat form in Afghanistan and Uzbekistan.

Special Feature of Ikat saree

A characteristic of ikat textiles is the apparent “fuzziness” of the pattern. This blurriness is due to the fact that it is extremely difficult for the weaver to align the dyed yarns so that the pattern shows perfectly in the finished fabric. The blurriness can be reduced by using finer yarns or by the skill of the artisan. Ikats with low blur, multiple colors, and intricate patterns are more difficult to make and therefore often more expensive. However, the blurriness so characteristic of ikats is often appreciated by textile collectors.

Ikat vs Patola – Key Differences Between Both the Sarees

Ikat Patola Ikat fabric is created by interweaving woven fabric and dyed warp with the undyed weft, or resistant weft threads are inserted into the undyed weft. In double ikat, on the other hand, both the weft and warp are made resistant and then intertwined to form complex and beautiful patterns With ikat sarees, the motifs and patterns are not as clearly visible because the fabric does not have details. By details, it simply means that only the weft thread is tied and dyed. The patterns and motifs are not as clear and visible as in the double ikat. In patola sarees, the fabric design motifs and other patterns are clearly visible and look brighter. The pattern created in double ikat is visible on both threads (front and back). Patterns in an ikat saree take less time to make because the details are only visible on one side. The patola pattern, on the other hand, takes more time as it goes through several layers of work and the dyeing process. This makes the double ikat a valuable and expensive fabric In ikat fabric, the fine prints are not as vibrant as in patola. It is considered a less refined version of a patola saree. When it comes to fine prints on the fabrics, double ikat offers more vibrant features than single ikat. The fabric is more appealing in terms of fine prints and details.

Conclusion

Ikat is a remarkably popular fabric and in the market, there is a huge demand for both single and double ikat (patola) sarees depending on various factors. Patola fabrics are more expensive compared to single ikat. Knowing the major differences between ikat sarees vs patola sarees, you can now choose the best and experience these unique fabrics.